Iain Maciver writes …

Ooh ooh ooh – why Saturday night is all right for frightening

November 2, 2009 · Leave a Comment

HALLOWEEN was so different when I was a lad. We dressed up as ghosts and ghouls, but there was a lot more to it when we went guising round the village. We would be dragged into houses out of the downpour to give a rendition of some supposedly-prepared Gaelic song or poem.

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What did Alex Salmond mean when he used the word brammer?

October 26, 2009 · Leave a Comment

WHEN the first minister and president-in-waiting of the republic of Scotland starts speaking Gaelic, we teuchters sit up and take notice. When we figure out he is not actually speaking our language but some obscure Scots – or, even worse, Doric – we go back to completely ignoring the poor fellow again.

So when Alex Salmond said recently that the election in Glasgow North-East was going to be “a brammer”, Gaels from Galson to Galashiels looked at each other and together went: “Duda?” What the heck was the big man on about?

I was quite shocked. Almost as shocked as I was on Saturday night when I turned on the telly to see Harry Hill’s TV Burp only to find Jock Murray, Kenny Mobil and the other naked peatcutters flashing their credentials on there. Did you see that? No? Count yourself very lucky, indeed.

Brammer, or so we all thought up here, was a proper Gaelic term that had been nicked and moulded by uncaring monoglots to fit the rules of English. Like the word galore, and duff, and subsidy.

Predictably, all the political correspondents were scrambling for their compendiums of Scottish slang. And a right burach they got themselves into as they decided to get to the bottom of this brammer business.

Alex Salmond with a bramair in Stornoway

Alex Salmond meets a bramair in Stornoway

Some said it was a term from the military in India and from the Hindu god Brahma, so it meant something deserving of respect and admiration. Hmm.

Some quoted a slang dictionary that had brammer listed between bowfin’ (smelly) and brassic (broke) as a west of Scotland word for splendid. Might have been what Alex Salmond meant but, nope, not up here it isn’t.

Others said it was another word for a woman that is pleasing to the eye as an alternative to smasher or stoater. No, that’s just pios math.

Let’s be honest, they were all wrong as far as we were concerned. Brammer, brammar, brahma, bràmair, with an accent or without – however you spell it – is a mighty fine word.

It is, of course, a term used when addressing children of school age about their boyfriends and girlfriends.

As in: “So, young Tommy, have you got a brammer yet?”

It can also be handy for parental guidance sessions about the role of the teaching profession, as in: “Now, Kylie, listen to me. Mr Macdonald is not your brammer. He is just your maths teacher. Yes, I know he looks like Simon Cowell, but that is not a good thing. OK?”

The term is polite, unequivocal and a completely innocent and Gaelic way of addressing the sticky matter of interpersonal relationships. That means that it has always been completely suitable for use on the Gaelic radio greetings and requests programme Na Dùrachdan on Friday evenings.

However, and remember this, it is not suitable for using when you stumble out of the Lewis Bar on a Saturday night and are convinced someone is giving you the glad eye.

No, you don’t ask if he or she has a brammer yet. You, of course, ask if they would like to come back to a party because you have half a tonne of cheap supermarket lager back at the flat and you need someone to help you finish it. Well, I am told that is how the romantic etiquette of most Stornoway lads goes nowadays.

But which is the correct spelling of that word? To answer the question, I tracked down Neen Mackay, a veteran of the greetings programme from, oh, decades ago. That word was a big part of her life back then, as I remember.

I think Neen was worried that I would not put it the right way in the paper. So just to put her mind at rest that I have not made a mistake or that she is not being misquoted in any way I will just reprint her entire reply.

“Aye, aye, cove. Properly, it’s bràmair. But, for country folk, any word beginning with ‘bram’ will do.

“So, how are you, anyway, big boy? Good to hear from you. All this talk of bràmairs takes me back to when you and I were working together. Gosh, we had a few bràmairs back then, didn’t we? In fact, we were a couple of bràmairs. Oh mo chreach sa thainig. Good job our partners don’t know what you and I got up to back then, eh?

“If I can help you with any little thing at all just give me a tinkle any time.”

Yes, well, I have no idea what Ms Mackay is on about there. I hardly knew the woman. It was all a long time ago.

Anyway, she reckoned the correct word was bràmair, even if they did have their own funny versions in Dalmore and Dalbeg. She should know.

That was good enough for me, so I went to check that word in the Gaelic college’s Stòr-dàta Briathrachais Gàidhlig. That’s a sort of online database of all Gaelic thingummybobs in the known universe.

And, bingo, it’s there. It is listed but, in a piece of awful, rampant Gaelic sexism, it has bràmair down as just meaning girlfriend or pin-up. On the radio request show and while I was growing up in Great Bernera primary school at any rate, it had always included us males of the species, too.

So I conducted more research and found another problem. Looking up bramair in that most comprehensive of tomes, Dwelly’s Gaelic Dictionary, I found it listed also, but with yet another altogether different meaning. While putting his dictionary together, Mr Dwelly decided that a bramair was a flatulent fellow. That’s what it says. I am only the messenger.

I looked up flatulent. All I can say is that I am more confused than ever by what Alex Salmond said about the Glasgow North East by-election. While politicians have often been said to be full of hot air, it is really a bit much for anyone to call any of them a bramair in the Dwelly’s sense of the word. Even if they sometimes are.

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Why does everyone look so glum at the Royal National Mod?

October 19, 2009 · Leave a Comment

OUR autumn holiday would be at the Mod. The family would have a great time going round the attractions of Oban while my week would pass with a warm and fuzzy feeling, meeting warm and fuzzy people I had not seen since I was last at the festival of all things heedrum-ho and enjoying beverages that would make me even more warm and fuzzy.

Sadly, someone else had other ideas. She treated my plan like islanders will treat an anti-Sunday ferries candidate – laughing at it, rubbishing it and then completely ignoring it. Sternly instructed we were going to the city of Glasgow, I thought how I love this marriage thing; sharing ideas and making compromises so we all get what we want.

A backup plan was called for. I pretended to misunderstand Seonag, the satnav. While loudly bursting into a chorus of A Pheigi a Ghraidh just as Seonag was telling me to enter a roundabout and take the first exit I sort of deliberately, but accidentally, took a wrong turn at Ballachulish.

This strange urge to sing loudly came intermittently – like when she began to quiz me on whether or not we were on the right road to Glasgow. Somehow, inexplicably, we ended up in a place called Oban where, gosh, we found a festival called the Royal National Mod in full swing. Dashed satnavs – can’t trust them.

It was meant to be, I suggested, as she announced we were staying for precisely 15 minutes. Then she met someone from Plasterfield. Yab, yab, yab. No one can talk like people from Plasterfield – especially to each other. So I was able to make my escape and dash upstairs to the Skipinnish Ceilidh Lounge.

Sadly, this imposing seafront venue has windows so large that she spotted me from across the road before I could even gulp my first dram.

Dragged by my aural appendage back to the car, I was ordered to drive and aim the car at the dear, green place by the Clyde unless I wanted to hear everything from now on in mono. Rumbled, I had no option but to head for Glasgow, a city often said to be ahead of its time. That’ll be why every second lamppost already carries adverts for “real” Christmas trees.

So, for a few days, I had to keep up with the Mod, courtesy of Tony Kearney and Mary Ann Kennedy, on the late-night telly. And what a grumpathon it was.

No, not Tony and Mary Ann. The two of them were happy to show off their dental work. But why is it that so many performers on the one TV programme celebrating the finest musicality of Gaeldom put on their dourest, sourest faces?

Very talented and normally happy people, competitors and established names, who should be ecstatic that they are performing to the nation, suddenly take on the joyless demeanour of our prime minister. Why don’t their tutors encourage them to smile – even if they are not enjoying themselves?

Thank goodness for Donnie Large, that’s all I can say. He helped lift the Gaelic gloom on one night, at least.

Getting all worked up about the nightly sulkiness, on Thursday I decided to head back to Oban to tell everyone to start smiling. I told the light of my life that I needed to take a train northwards to visit long-lost relatives in Dumbarton; I knew she didn’t like that place so would lose all interest in my movements. She can’t even say its name properly. She pronounces it as Dumb-Parton. I don’t know if she is having a go at that smiley, well-built country and western singer or just needs false teeth.

One of the first people I bumped into in Oban was the legendary comic entertainer Norman Maclean (autobiography now available in all good bookshops). He knows how to smile. We had a long chat about his run-ins with Brigitte Bardot and Frank Sinatra. Then we went off and had a few strong drinks together – Americano coffees in the Cuan Mòr restaurant.

Then there was another broadly-smiling legend. Willie Morrison, a veteran reporter of the parish of Durness who used to write for this very organ, was also to be found stravaiging on George Street. Many is the Mod I have had with Uilleam where he has regaled us in the late evening with heart-tugging renditions of ballads about the big sheep of the Highland Clearances. Willie could bring a tear to a glass eye, aye he could. But he smiles most of the time.

Reassured that there were enough smilers to keep things light until the end of the week, I headed south. I was soon to learn the perils of using ScotRail’s latest toilets improperly. Unlike the town-centre ones, you need to press a button to lock yourself in. Only then will the outside “engaged” light come on.

I was sitting not far from just such a convenience and saw a young lady enter. She did not lock it from the inside so no light came on. Oh-oh. A blue-rinsed Mod-goer was about to enter, so I warned her there was someone in already. She shot me a withering glare suggesting I mind my own business and muttered no light was on.

Shrieks from the interrupted youngster rang round the carriage. I felt like saying “Told you so,” but magnanimously I kept shtum.

It is a three-hour journey from Oban. A couple of hours afterwards, I noticed the haughty blue-rinse lady nipping to the loo again. I couldn’t believe it. No light. She’d forgotten to lock it.

Then a big, burly man, with builder’s cleavage, went to spend a penny. I know, I could have said something about the blue-rinse lady being still in there. I am so naughty.

Bloodcurdling screams reverberated everywhere as the door slid open and the grumpy woman was confronted at her business by the bursting builder.

I’m still giggling. Is that very bad of me?

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Despite smoke, flames and an exploding haddock, I kept my cool

October 12, 2009 · Leave a Comment

THE fillets of fish had just been turned when she noticed that they were, er, slightly illuminated. This was a surprise because the light in the oven had given up the ghost several years ago. But, sure enough, the breaded fish were there sizzling away in the spotlight like Danny La Rue giving it laldy in The Good Old Days.

Oh good: no need to get a new oven quite yet, then.

But the light seemed particularly bright at the top right-hand side of the oven – almost like a flaming star, I noted – and I wondered about the river of gunge which was running down inside the glass door.

Not wanting to cause any undue alarm, I wondered if there could be any teensy-weensy chance that the top of the oven could be ever-so-slightly on fire?

A quick glance at Mrs X confirmed that she has mind-reading powers. It’s the eyes that gave it away; they were like saucers. That and the yelp which sounded suspiciously like “get the fire extinguisher”.

Always calm and decisive in any emergency, I lunged forward as she screamed not to open the door of the oven. How could I investigate what was going on in there if I did not open the door? Silly woman. This was a time for action.

So I wrenched it open, only for a gigantic mushroom of flame to shoot out singeing my hair, my eyebrows and those tickly wee hairs quite far up my nose. The blast sent me hurtling backwards, tripping over the dog and I ended up wedged bum-first in the cupboard with the All-Bran and the extra virgin olive oil.

Realising that the man in her life was brave beyond words, Mrs X meanwhile set about the various minor tasks that I was obviously too busy to do. Like closing the oven door on the raging inferno, turning off the cooker at the mains and wiping my still-smouldering features down with a damp cloth.

As I sat there, picking bits of charcoal and breaded haddock from under my eyelids and out of my ears, I thought how fortunate that I was there when it happened.

The fact that our oven happened to blow up as Mrs X was making dinner was purely coincidental. It should not be taken as any comment by me on her skills in the kitchen or with any appliances. But that is what happened.

How would she have coped if I had not been there?

Would she ever have got round to opening that oven door and confirming those fillets of fish were, indeed, well done?

Thank goodness I was there in her hour of need.

As she was untypically slow in congratulating me on my rapid response, to get the soot out of my lungs I headed off for a stroll in the castle grounds with Hector, the slightly-smoky miniature schnauzer.

I chanced upon Jock Stewart. Jock and his wife, Chrissie, were my guvnors when I was a barman in that fine establishment the Criterion Bar, back in the 1970s.

I wonder if I’m still barred?

Jock told me Kenny Ritchie, his brother-in-law in Whitehills and a former journalist himself, reads this column and that I must say hello. Aw, that’s nice.

Hi, Kenny, you really should find better things to do with your time.

However, Murphy’s law is such that whenever you get a compliment like that, someone is about to slap you with a wet fish.

So a letter then flutters in from downtown Caithness. Someone is concerned the readers of the P&J are suffering by having to gaze upon the sight of my roughly-hewn and inelegant bone structure here every Monday.

Dan Mackay who, by the sound of it, must have a chiselled jawbone and a six-pack tucked under his semmit, helpfully suggests electronic photo enhancement to avoid further distress to the blue-rinse ladies of Wick and himself.

What nonsense. I did not spend a fortune on strong drink and wild women cultivating this deeply-furrowed world-weary look you see before you just to have it all airbrushed away for the sake of namby-pamby Caithnessians with weak stomachs.

Mr Mackay then went on to disparage everyone in the Western Isles. We folk over here on the blasted and less-smelly side of the Minch are not entertaining enough for him.

He should get out more.

It is quite obvious he has not yet met many people from the Free Church (Continuing). I mean, can anyone listen to self-righteousness like that without being reduced to fits of giggles?

However, he may just have a point about my general look. So it was with a heavy heart and a heavy pocket of pound coins that I finally decided to go in for some enhancement. I headed for the barber – after I had cut off the badly burned bits myself.

I figured that merely tweaking my photo was no good. I had actually to make some real deep-down changes. A haircut was the best place to start. Any necessary plastic surgery will come later.

The delightful Marianne Hovis was on duty. Beckoning me to the chair, she asked whether I wanted a number one or a number two. I told her just make me pretty. She sighed in that polite way that people do when they know the task ahead is impossible. But Marianne set to it with gusto: snipping, chopping, hacking, grinding.

Before long, I was divested of my tatty head blanket and emerged like a newly sheared ram.

I ran all the way home and asked Mrs X if that was any better.

She decided the word was different. It was a new look, she agreed, but as that look was a cross between Winston Churchill and Homer Simpson, it was not necessarily an improvement, she said, as she reached for the balaclava.

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Reverend George Hargreaves

October 8, 2009 · 1 Comment

See that Hargreaves fellow. He does seem like a particularly nice man, doesn’t he?107952

Like so many people, I really hope this talented and humble individual comes and stands for election here in the islands and will not be put off by the current unpleasantness being put about by people who should know better.

They should go home and read their bibles and pray for forgiveness.

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Fishy treat for top pint puller puts cabbie in line for gong

October 8, 2009 · Leave a Comment

SO THERE I was sitting in the bar of the Isle of Benbecula House Hotel at Creagorry and someone said it was about time I changed my name to Michael and be like the rest of the company. The bartender beside me was Yorkshire Michael, and the other bar steward was Mickey from Dublin.

Cameraman is one of them, too. No, not Irish. That’s not what I meant. Silly.

Then Mickey helpfully pointed out that while there may, indeed, be three Michaels, only two of them held that most illustrious of titles, The Best Barmen in the Western Isles.

Turns out they had both nominated each other and then, being nice guys, both awarded the titles to each other. They were joint winners. And as there have still been no challengers for the title, they remain the Two Best Barmen in the Western Isles. Brilliant.

Lots of people put themselves forward for all sorts of things and some of them even get the grand titles they want.

However, most people have to go through some kind of tiresome voting thingummybob to get the big titles.

Like Esther Rantzen and John Smeaton, for example. They want the titles of MP for Luton South and Glasgow North East respectively. Er, why?

Unlike the Premier Pint Pullers of Creagorry, those two need more than each other’s votes to snatch those beauties.

Dear old Esther. I do love her. How we giggled at her funny vegetables and that dog that could pronounce the word sausages better than most people at home.

And John Smeaton seems sound. At his press conference, I thought he was going to tell one reporter he was going to set aboot him.

But Esther and John as MPs? No, no, no. We want them on the box being bonkers – what they are good at. Did you get that? No.

Now I think I’ll do some nominating myself. I nominate Willie Macaulay, of Sketch’s Taxis of Benbecula, as Best Taxi Driver in the Western Isles.

It was Yorkshire Michael who ordered a cab from Sketch’s recently to take him to Margaret, the hairdresser. He did not have much in for his tea and said Willie may have to take him shopping afterwards.

But there was going to be a bit of a wait until Michael got his locks permed.

So off goes Willie, promising to be back in an hour. However, oor Wullie got out his fishing rod and went on to the loch. By the time he was due to pick up Michael, he had hooked three brown trout.

Then, when he did pick up the closely-sheared bartender, Willie presented him with the fish, all skinned and filleted. Not only that, he also gave Michael detailed instructions on how to cook them so they tasted just grand.

Can anyone beat that giant among roadsters, Willie Mac of Sketch’s, for customer service? Has any other knight of island highways and passing places gone above and beyond in helping their passengers? I would be delighted to hear.

I must nominate Cameraman for an award, too. Without a quibble or a murmur, he showed his carefully-hidden caring side when he answered my call and came to soothe my fevered brow.

In the last few days, I have been flattened by what seemed at first like a common cold but turned into something more fluey – a swine of a thing, but probably not swine flu. Just the plain, ordinary, boring, gut-wrenching, head-bursting, eye-smarting, bone-aching, chest-tightening, toilet-troubling variety that we had all but forgotten was still lurking out there.

Mrs X, I regret to report, was no help at all. The sight of my distress must have been too much for the poor thing. She wrapped herself in the most un-sexy bedjacket she could find and lay down on the couch, in a forest of hot-water bottles and tissues, while declaring herself far more ill than I was.

“Scuse me, m’eudail, what about me-ee-ee?” I might as well have been banging my head against a wall.

If these women had any idea what man flu was really like, they would be more sympathetic. Could anything be worse?

So it was Cameraman who was my unlikely angel of mercy. Within seconds, he was racing back from Leurbost to bring us no fewer than three of the latest guaranteed best cures known to medical science.

However, there were mixed results, I am sad to say. I was better for an hour then felt worse and then was sick and then felt better but, just in case it would help, had some more of the supposedly lemon-flavoured concoction that the unshaven angel Cameraman had rushed to my bedside.

Lemon-flavoured? The powder you make it from looks a bit yellowish, but why, if there was any lemon in it, would it have a different taste: like a cross between stewed dung beetles, stale tobacco and Foggy the fisherman’s armpit after a long gutting session?

Not that I have been anywhere near Mr Macdonald’s usually well-fragranced underarms after any such activity, but he is a fisher of men I know well, so hopefully he won’t bash me. It was that different. With added vitamin C, of course.

If I didn’t have tears in my eyes before slugging that back, I sure did afterwards.

It will be all to do with motivation. The theory will be that one swig of that foul brew and your whole body will want to repair itself immediately to avoid any future trauma.

No pain, no gain, though. At least I can type now. So I can tell the world that Cameraman could have another career as a latter-day Florence Nightingale if he wants to jump ship to the NHS.

Yes, despite the sheer agony I suffered as he tried to find somewhere to stick that thermometer, I propose Cameraman as the Best Nursemaid in the Western Isles. But he does have shockingly cold hands.

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I am very worried about a star from that series Trawlermen

September 28, 2009 · Leave a Comment

MY OWN view had always been that all this fuss about ageism on TV was a bit over the top. It was all a bad case of sour grapes by personalities who had been passed over.

That was until the other day when my own wife suddenly jumped up, pointed crazily at the TV screen and screeched: “Look, look, it’s Big Al. Oh, he’s such a lovely man. Isn’t he? Look, look. He is going up and down on that boat.”

I had been dozing and the telly had been on a news channel and I thought she was watching some interview about Baroness Scotland’s cleaning lady or some other hugely important issue that had been dominating the news agenda.

But as she has always had so little interest in politics that she could be a member of the Monster Raving Loony Party for all I know, I was intrigued about what she was watching.

Who the heck was Big Al? Who is this so-called “lovely man”?

As I tried to focus on the box in the corner, my mind was racing. Was it Alistair Darling or even Alastair Campbell who had caused such raptures? No, didn’t think so. Maybe it was our MSP, Alasdair Allan? Hmm, maybe not.

As the mists of slumber cleared, I realised she wasn’t watching the news. She was glued to the BBC series Trawlermen. And there was a burly fisherman on there called Big Al yapping away.

With all the “ye kens” and “fit likes”, like most of them on that series, I gathered he was from the north-east. And, it turns out, he is a regular visitor to Stornoway, too.

Now I am quite sure Big Al is a nice guy. He seemed to be. But it was just such a shock for me to discover that my wife knew anyone from the north-east – and a TV star at that.

They are just so hard to understand over there, particularly for us Hebrideans who are all taught the Queen’s English – and, very often, the Queen’s Gaelic, too.

And Big Al is not that young, either. He may even be as old as myself. Normally, I would not be fretting unless she was cosying up to a younger man. But TV stars are different to the rest of us. You have to watch them, if you know what I mean.

Something happens to people when they appear on the telly. I don’t know what it is, but TV stars seem to become instantly more attractive to everyone. Even older people – except Bruce Forsyth, obviously.

No wonder all these old codgers like Arlene Phillips and Selina Scott are furious when they are replaced by younger models. How they must miss the adoration, the public recognition, the pay cheque.

Mark Thompson, the director-general of the Beeb, has decided to do something to stop the oldies’ whining. He has personally ordered a nationwide search to find a semi-intelligible woman who is at least 50 to read the news. Come on, there has to be one somewhere.

The corporation is always looking to cut costs, so they are especially keen to hear from candidates who could turn their hand to other things, apart from the national news. They may want them, for example, to present Panorama occasionally, or Newsnight. That sort of thing. Anything to save money.

Which gives a great opportunity for a, er, more-mature Gaelic-speaker to apply. She could then work on BBC Alba when she was not on national TV. It would save a packet. It would also bring a bit of gravitas to Alba, where sometimes the average age of the autocuties at times seems to be closer to 21 than 51.

Except, of course, when Norman Campbell is before the camera. Now there is gravitas. Thankfully, he has the necessary jowls and furrowed brow which the army of highly-paid make-up experts who are called in when he is on duty have always completely failed to conceal.

Don’t you worry, though, a Thormoid. That is a good thing. It ensures that your viewers really, really believe that you really, really mean what you are saying.

Just don’t go spoiling it by saying something really daft such as Highlands and Islands Enterprise being dedicated to ensuring its resources are well-used around the north of Scotland or that it has its priorities just right.

Now that it has decided that having decided that Invershneggie is the place in most urgent need of its tens of millions of pounds, HIE is in the black books with everyone who is not based in that city. So no one is going to believe nonsense like that about it any more.

A while back, I did a wee thing for the Gaelic TV channel myself. The feedback was very interesting. While I was not exactly mobbed in Tesco afterwards, one of the checkout girls did happen to smile my way. She beep-beeped my mackerel fillets and whispered softly that I looked a whole lot younger on screen.

Well, I bounced out of there with wings on my heels. I got on the phone to the TV people. I made sure they knew I was available for all future shows. I’ll read the news; I’ll cook with Cathy; I’ll be Padruig Post. Anything to stop the advance of wrinkliness.

For some reason, they haven’t actually phoned me back yet. I’m sure they must be very busy.

Annie Macdonald, the councillor and cousin of my own, was on the same programme. She tells me she got similar plaudits about looking many years younger. Annie is chuffed to bits, obviously, but then she is a woman. Goodness knows how long it took her to trowel on the slap to get that wide-eyed innocent youthfulness that the men on our side of the family are naturally blessed with.

Women are different to men. That’s all I’m saying. Maybe I ought to stop now.

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Whisky Galore led me astray in the fleshpots of Castlebay

September 22, 2009 · 1 Comment

THE phone rings. Would I like to go to Barra and get a flavour of Whisky Galore? They are having a festival down there to celebrate 60 years since the film came out.

Och well now, let me think. I’ve only been waiting for the last 25 years for that kind of phone call. Aye, OK then. If you’re stuck, I’ll do it.

I have always been fascinated by Barra. I think it was since I heard a radio interview with a man from neighbouring Vatisker who was asked if he was in favour of the causeway being built to link the two islands.

“No. I am dead against it,” he said. “I certainly don’t want our children being led astray in the fleshpots of Castlebay.”

I have been looking for them ever since.

Turns out that Cameraman, Winchwire Willie and Jock Murray, the naked peatcutter, were also going down. We met up in Am Politician. Named after the real-life cargo ship SS Politician which ran aground in 1941 with thousands of cases of whisky aboard, the pub is not on Barra or even on Todday, but on Eriskay.

Stephen Campbell, Am Politician’s manager, showed us a fantastic collection of bottles and other stuff from the wreck. He even has a fearsome cutlass. Why was that on board? Maybe they used it as a letter-opener. That’ll be it.

For Friday’s launch, we were shipped over to Kisimul Castle, one of the few Scottish strongholds never taken in battle, the seat of the Macneils and a slightly-spooky Tardis-like landmark.

Walk in and you are transported from an islet off Castlebay to what seems like a smart town courtyard – manicured lawns surrounded by tall houses. It was uncanny. My head was spinning. And that was before we even had the welcome drams.

Unlike similar semi-detacheds owned by Hebridean Housing Partnership, these maisonettes are made up of not only pokey wee rooms but also grand chambers, offices and sweeping stairways. Beside one door there is even a freshwater well. I didn’t expect that.

People had come from faraway places with strange-sounding names, from Sweden, the States, the United Arab Emirates and Dornoch.

After music and dancing, local players performed a “reiteach” in the castle – a betrothal party where advice is dispensed to the happy couple. This is basically where more-experienced women who know the pitfalls of marriage offer valuable tips, and all the men just warn gravely against it.

Under a dodgy hat that was several sizes too small, I realised one of these strolling minstrels was Councillor Donald Manford. One memorable line his character had was: “When I proposed to your mother, I was on all fours. I had to be; she was under the table.”

I swear I also heard him utter: “God bless the Eriskay rocks. They brought us the only thing worth having from a politician.”

Was Donald still in character when he said that? I’m not sure.

Then we had the real honour of meeting retired postie Ewen Macintosh up in Borve. In Whisky Galore, he is the wee boy, aged just 12, who dolefully reads out his school essay: “There was no whisky again this week and when there is no whisky we are all very, very sad.”

Ewen even re-enacted the scene one more time at Castlebay School and that will probably be on the telly this evening.

Later, at the wedding, there were fears about infiltration by al Qaida. A telegram was read out which sounded as if it was from the leader of a terror organisation. It was from Dylan Bin Larry. That’s actually Dylan on the bin lorry.

I stayed all weekend, but Cameraman made off back to Stornoway. He didn’t have enough clean clothes to stay down. I quickly figured that he hadn’t packed enough underpants.

He rebuffed my suggestion to go and make inquiries about where to buy underthings and stuff. Not that I have seen any clothes shops, but there are bound to be some. I mean, there are many places on Barra without signs.

I remember asking an old man once where I could buy a torch. He directed me to a shop in the square.

“You know, the shop you wouldn’t know was there if you didn’t know it was there.”

When I asked why they did not just put a sign on it, our bodach replied: “Why? We all know it’s there.”

If he was going to stay an extra day, Cameraman decided, he would just turn his underpants inside out. That would do for the second day. What about the third day?

“Well, if I have to stay another day, I’ll just swop pants with you. That way we will both be wearing pants that are new to us.”

“Go. Go now,” I urged, in my most horrified tone.

Venturing out on Saturday night, whom did I bump into but Iain Macaulay from Point. The Gaelic singer and ferry engineer had just tied up at Castlebay Pier. Then Catherine Lillian and Christine Kojak volunteered to take us on a tour of the famous fleshpots. We finished up in the community hall bopping to Face the West.

Catherine and Christine are lovely little movers. Iain, too, is nimble on his pins. He was giving it laldy to Wedding Stone, a self-penned composition by Mr Keith Morrison himself.

Earlier on, we had an embarrassing incident in the bar of the Castlebay Hotel. I ran out of cash and Iain said he left his bank card on board the ferry. Not that old chestnut, Iain.

I asked Mags Macneil, the barmaid, if she could let us have a wee advance until the following day. But it seems the person who is responsible for such decisions is a lady called Helen.

What Mags actually said was: “If you think I am giving credit on a Saturday night to a couple of chancers from Lewis, you can just go to Helen Waite.”

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I will try anything once except maybe Morag’s bananas

September 14, 2009 · Leave a Comment

WHEN a generous road builder from Tong offers you a piece of cake and says he made it himself, you cannot help but wonder not only what is in it but also how he made it.

No reason for my doubts other than the fact that being able to drive a digger or wield a shovel does not necessarily give you a flair for delicately popping a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda or even shovelling 140 grams of muscovado sugar into a mixing bowl.

That’s prejudice. Someone’s occupation should be no disqualification. So I accepted the exceedingly kind offer in the Carlton by Murdo Farquhar of a wedge of his banana loaf cake. What a revelation. It was the tastiest, finest, moistest, yummiest banana loaf that I ever had the pleasure of placing on my primary deglutition organ. That’s my tongue, in case you’re wondering.

I know because I have had many banana loaf thingies. I have nibbled at some of the very finest – ones made by Nigella Lawson.

Before she became a domestic goddess, Nigel Lawson’s big girl sat opposite me at a London newspaper and, yes, she was always bringing in snacks.

A former colleague

A former colleague

It would be sun-dried vine tomatoes with shavings of Peruvian goat’s cheese, then fine slivers of roasted yak shoulder drizzled with a jus distilled from drops of dew from 1,000 Tibetan mornings.

It was a two-way thing, of course. When it was my turn, Nigella always got half my prawn sandwich, drizzled with a subtle mayonnaise and ketchup mixture from the mist-shrouded slopes of Kensington High Street.

Sadly, her loaf was always a tad dry. It fell apart and the entire aromatic affair would end up in my lap. Even then she was not wanting in handy domestic skills and noting my discomfiture she would bound over to help me retrieve every last crumb from every last fold of my upper-trouser.

Remarkable woman. Cold hands though.

She is now married to Charles Saatchi, the art collector. But why? He has been described as unsociable, grumpy and always on a diet. Crikey, if I had known that was what she was looking for it could all have been so very different for the both of us. Obviously, I did not drop enough banana loaf or deep-fried duck-billed eel down my front. Mind you, I have been dropping everything else over myself since, as the present Mrs Maciver testifies with unnecessary regularity.

Sir Thomas Beecham said we should try everything once except folk dancing and tickling our relatives, or words to that effect. How else can we know whether we will like something if we do not actually give it a whirl at least once?

There is a tip here for the Rev George Hargreaves of the Scottish Christian Party. They are putting up a no-Sunday-ferries candidate at the next election.

But then there are the other lot who are also doing that so neither will have a snowball’s chance. If he really wants to get into Western Isles politics, I think the writer of So Macho should cosy up to the islands’ Labour Party. The branch is looking for a chairman with a profile after Callum Ian MacMillan decided to, er, seek alternative challenges. Mr Hargreaves certainly has a profile. Two years as Labour chairman and he could then be the candidate. Go on, you know you want to.

And what better challenge for Mr MacMillan than jump on board the Scottish Christian Party? You may like it, CI.

Thankfully, there are people with an adventurous side to their character. People who will try just about anything, sometimes just so that they can say they at least tried it. Sometimes though, you have to be careful who you tell.

Take Morag Macdonald of Mire ri Mor, the grand diva of morning Gaelic radio. A few weeks ago, I am reliably informed, Mor mentioned how they passed the time at least once when she was a young girl.

Apparently, and I didn’t hear it myself but I have the most reliable informants in Ishbel and Jessie from Ness, she let slip that she and these other fine upstanding young ladies who were her contemporaries liked nothing better than smoking dodgy substances.

Morag? Our Mor? The Mire Mor? No way.

To say I was somewhat shocked is a bit like saying the Sabbatarians are somewhat against Sunday ferries. To look at her now you would think Mor was the very model of elegant propriety and charm. Yet lurking beneath that serene, matronly exterior is . . . a what, a junkie?

The shameless hussy that she is, she went into great detail about what they got up to in the cycle sheds, or whatever their foul den was. As the courts have sadly heard so very often, the procedure involved colourful, exotic and costly vegetation from lands far away. I mean, have you seen the price of bananas?http://www.fruits.com/uploadedImages/picture_banana.jpg

Yes, indeed, the modus operandus, the listeners learned as Mor made a clean breast of her mis-spent youth, was that these naughty pals scraped the white fibrous layer from inside the skin of these bananas, dried it out, stuck it on to a Rizla paper and took to vigorous sucking. It was not illegal, we are assured.

To this day, apparently, these now-refined ladies claim it was all based on an unfounded rumour circulating among Mor and her contemporaries about the properties of dried and singed nanas and that it did absolutely nothing for them – or to them.

I am really not so sure, you know. The effects of that kind of thing could be long term. They may take decades to manifest themselves. We are watching and listening very carefully to Mire.

And shock, horror; this did not actually happen on Uist. The smoking of the yellow fellow incident occurred on the mainland while the lady in question was staying in the school hostel.

Does this mean Morag was a herbaceous boarder?

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I think Lord Lucan is alive and well and living in Branahuie

September 8, 2009 · 1 Comment

FANCY being in a place where even the people who live there can hardly pronounce it.

Actually, it happens here in the islands quite a bit because there are so many Gaelic names which don’t translate easily into the language of those down saff, innit.

For example, pick up a visitor from the mainland at Stornoway Airport, drive out and the first thing they will see is a sign that says Branahuie. They always ask the same thing: so do they make bran in Bran-na-huey?

So you put right the imbecilic incomer and tell them it is just a triple-glazed shanty town of people who hate travelling, so they live close to the airport in case they ever have to go to the mainland in a hurry. That keeps them happy for a bit.

Then, for good measure, you tell them the correct name of the place is Braigh na h-Aoidhe. You then spell it out, talking very slowly, and tell them the shorter form on the road sign is just to make it easier for our dear visitors from Engelant and Whales.

For the rest of the journey into town you have to put up with a confused traveller trying in his own head to make sense of how that particular so-called “easy” combination of letters doesn’t rhyme with Hughie.

It is just a shouting noise of which there are no grammatical examples in the entire Oxford English Dictionary, they ponder.

Apparently, there are people who have moved to that noisy township who have stayed quiet for years practising that end bit every day before they have even attempted to try and tell anyone else where they live. It would be embarrassing to admit you can’t say where you live.

Branahuie resident not seen since 1974?

I bet that is why no one has heard from Lord Lucan for a while. He is not actually missing, just living quietly in Branahuie and is too mortified to tell anyone he can’t pronounce it. When was he last seen? 1974? Should be getting close now, but it does take a while to get it right.

In case you are thinking of going down to Branahuie to try to find Lord Lucan, remember that his appearance may have changed. Where once he was the dapper mustachioed earl shown in press photos, the ravages of decades may mean he is not so immaculate now and he could just come out with nonsense.

Remember there are other residents in that village who also make little sense at the best of times. If you do meet a suspicious-looking local character who rambles on incessantly about this and that, make sure you haven’t just met David Morrison, the radio boss and insurance supremo. Or even Glenn Denny, another Isles FM widecaster.

So just to be clear, neither of these two Branahuievians is wanted in connection with any murder. However, as most people here are aware, both their tastes in music should definitely be a crime of some kind.

Down in Harris, Amhuinnsuidhe is another splendid name for setting off the migraines of tourists. While, on Barra, you can’t pronounce Earsaraidh correctly without some right-on visitor being aghast that anyone would use language like that in polite company. Particularly the ones from Stornoway who are all convinced it is terribly rude.

Another one is Airidhbhruach, that village by the uppermost extremities of Loch Seaforth and which is famous for many reasons. That long, straight stretch of road just to the south of the settlement meant that, when I was young, it was the place to go to test how fast your car could go. A weekend was not complete until you had flipped over your clapped-out Ford Escort Mk1 at a heart-stopping 55mph and then crawled back to Airidhbhruach on all fours to phone home to say you needed a lift to the hospital to repair your face.

You couldn’t phone an ambulance because the cops would come and you weren’t insured.

Never happened to me, of course. Just something I heard about. Can’t think where. Maybe I dreamed it. Yeah, that must be it. Never happened. Forget I said anything.

Since then, however, the village has become notable for several things. Apart from the awesome wealth of its inhabitants, there is the magnificent singing voice of Donald Martin, the mysterious mini-Taj Mahal built on the left of the road as you approach from the north and, of course, the delightful Katie Ann Mackenzie, she of Gaelic radio fame.

Now the very name of the village is set to be stamped into our consciousness by the efforts of no less than the AGOFR (that’s Avante Gaelic Obscurist Folk Rock) supergroup. Made up of members of notable beat combos like The Guireans, the Dun Ringles, The Iain MacKinnon Experience, Memphis Louie and the Rockin’ Firebird of Death, they have put together an emotional soul-prodder of a ballad that celebrates all that is excellent about Airidhbhruach.

It is crafted like the aria that is Hallelujah, penned by Leonard Cohen but which everyone under 50 thinks was made famous by Simon Cowell and last year’s X Factor winner person.

With words that play heavily on the ongoing strife waged between our allegedly softer town-dwellers and the more hard-edged country gentlemen, it may be immediately apparent to some that the lads’ lyrics are not quite those of the legendary Mr Cohen.

The original, of course, has many lines that rhyme with Hallelujah. How could AGOFR tackle that challenge?

The language purists don’t approve,
It’s Airidh a’ bhruaich, ya townie pooves,
Pronounce it right or we will fleekeen do ya.

If you have been there before,
You probably won’t go back no more,
Especially if you’re a deer – because they’ll stew ya.

Listen to it several times on YouTube and tell me it is not the most awe-inspiring tribute to a village and its people that you have ever heard.

And if Lord Lucan hears it, it could be the final straw that makes him hand himself in.

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